Who needs virtual reality, when Greater Miami and the Beaches' attractions offer authentic sights and experiences for people of all ages.

On the surface, Miami can seem like a sprawl of fast-paced tempo and cosmopolitan sophistication. But dig deeper, get off the turnpike, the freeway, and Ocean Drive and you'll find enclaves of historic communities framed in settings of tropical blossoms, coral rock, and arching banyan canopies.

DAY 1 - Enter Miami through the backdoor - from the southwest - for an easygoing introduction into metropolitan life in the Kendall and South Miami neighborhoods. Spend the morning at Miami MetroZoo (305-251-0440; www.miamimetrozoo.com) where animals roam uncaged and Rain Rooms sprinkle you cool in summer. Young Kids will like the play area with its new petting zoo and meerkat exhibit, and the air conditioned monorail.

Then pick up home-cooked lunch "to go" at Picnics at Allen's Pharmacy (305-665-6964) and go to Matheson Hammock Park (305-666-6979) for a dip in lagoon waters at the Atoll Pool Beach. Entirely enclosed, it's great for small kids. Playgrounds, shaded picnic areas, bike paths, and a sailing school further accommodate families.

In the afternoon, take your pick. Tour the lush grounds of Parrot Jungle and Gardens (305-666-7834; www.parrotjungle.com) where you can walk through a lorikeet aviary, swing on the playground, bottle-feed farm animals, and watch bird, monkey and alligator shenanigans on stage. Or instead, visit the mostly-inside Miami Museum of Science (call 305-646-4200; visit www.miamisci.org) with interactive exhibits, a kiddie play area, and a planetarium indoors; predatory birds and more than 175 other animals out. Short on the glitz of more modern sceince museums, this one, 50 years old, feels settled-in and neighborly. The new Latin America Smithsonian exhibit appeals to Indiana ]ones-types. Through September 9, see the "Sharks! Fact & Fantasy" exhibit.

DAY 2 - Today we explore two of Miami's oldest neigh­borhoods, beginning in exquisite Coral Gables, built like a fairy-tale castle out of stone. It's best to bring a bike or rent one to experience this maze-like community, its stunning Medi­terranean homes and tree-lined avenues.

When you're ready for a cool, refreshing break, make your way to the Venetian Pool (305-460-5356). Out of the coral-rock quarry that yielded Coral Gables' homebuilding materials, founders created a circa-1920 oasis with stone bridges, waterfalls, caves, Mediterranean towers and rich foliage.

Now head downtown, where old meets new. For an inexpensive lunch that's authentically Miami, dig into a wholesome plate of Cuban specialties at Caciques (305-371-8317). It is conveniently located cross the street from the Historical Museum of Florida (305-375-1492). Here kids can play with pioneer toys, climb aboard a trolley and into a fort tower, dress like pirates, and do all sorts of hands-on activities at the stimulating exhibits, designed to appeal to visitors of all heights.

DAY 3 - Pass up chi-chi South Beach for homey North Miami Beach and environs, which hold secrets only the locals know about. Plan on spending time outdoors. Begin in North Miami, just off the beach, at Oleta River State Park (305-919-1846), a wonderful place to swim, picnic, climb a hill (yes, in Florida), fish from the pier, and ride bikes along paved and off-road trails. Nearby En­chanted Forest (305-891-8512) at Elaine Gordon Park is just that: a park where swans, storybook thickets, nature trails with wood bridges, a tot lot, and horse­back riding create magic. It seems as if Robin Hood may come charging in at any minute. Bring carrots and apples to feed the horses.

Picnic at Enchanted Forest or at Haulover Park, an oceanfront beach park on North Miami Beach. At the marina on the park's leeward side, rent your vessel of Adventure from Urban Trails Kayak (call 305-947-1302; www.urbantrails.com) and explore with or without a tour. Tandem kayaks rent for $12 an hour; tours can cost $35 each. If you decide to go to the beach here, be aware that the north end of Haulover Park beach is a clothing-optional area).